Low Frequency Springs for the 22 Buggy

Hello TLR Drivers,

We are really excited to bring you  new performance upgrade parts for the 22 platform: 

Front Spring Set, Low Frequency (4 pair): 22/T/SCT 
Rear Spring Set, Low Frequency (5 pair): 22/T/SCT 

These springs have been tested for a few month by our race team with great success. The springs are made with much smaller increments between spring rates allowing for a finer tune on the setup. Rear springs are separated by only 0.06 lbs/in and fronts by only 0.12 lbs/in. The LF springs have a higher coil count than the traditional TLR Spring, which provides a lower frequency and a much less progressive feel. On the track, this translates to more overall grip around the track, and a less aggressive spring rebound which really helps the car settle after landing jumps. These springs are easily identifiable versus the traditional TLR springs as they have a black oxide coating which looks more like a matte finish compared to the black painted traditional TLR springs. They also have the color paint markings to identify the rate, but the coil count of the springs will also help to identify the rate even if the paint mark were to be remove. Lastly, the springs come in complete sets, so there is no need to track down several pairs.  The front spring kit comes with 4 pairs of springs ranging from 2.86-3.18 lbs/in and the rear spring kit comes with 5 pairs of springs ranging from 1.96-2.16 lbs/in. The front spring set rate range is likely only going to be ideal for the 22 buggy, but the rear spring range will work for all the 22 platform vehicle; 22, 22T, 22SCT. Below are images, links, and the spring rate information for both the front and rear sets.




TLR233012 - Front Spring Set, Low Frequency (4 pair): 22/T/SCT

Available for $19.99

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=TLR233012

TLR233012 - Springs included in order from softest to stiffest: 

Pink                        2.86 lbs./in         9.25 coils

Red                        2.96 lbs./in          9.00 coils

Orange                   3.03 lbs./in          8.75 coils

Silver                      3.18 lbs./in          8.50 coils

TLR233013 - Rear Spring Set, Low Frequency (5 pair): 22/T/SCT

Available for $24.99

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=TLR233013

Springs included in order from softest to stiffest:

Grey                      1.96 lbs./in          12.50 coils

White                    2.02 lbs./in          12.25 coils

Yellow                   2.06 lbs./in          12.00 coils

Pink                       2.11 lbs./in          11.75 coils

Red                       2.16 lbs./in          11.50 coils

I am confident these springs will take the performance of your 22 to the next level on most dirt surface, especially is they are medium to low grip.  Dustin is currently running the Red front springs and White rear springs, while JR Mitch is running the Red front springs with Yellow rear springs.  This information is just to help provide a good starting point.

Have fun with these springs and RACE ON!

Frank

Nitro engine break-in.

I get asked all the time what is the best way to break in a nitro engine. I'm not sure if it the best method, but here what I do to break-in my Nova Rossi engines. With the engine installed in buggy I pre-heat the engine using a Competition Heater. If you don't have a heater from Competition Heat you can use a heat gun or hair dryer. Heat the engine up to 170-200 degrees before starting it. After you start the engine I usually leave the heater on the head, but unplug it. If you don’t have a heater you can put a 1/10th truck insert around the head to help keep the engine warm. I’ll then set the idle and low speed needle to make sure the engine idles consistently and let the engine idle for one tank. You may want to slightly rev the engine from time to time just enough to clean out the pipe. After one tank let the engine cool. Then repeat the process 3-4 times to heat cycle the engine. You should then be ready to hit the track or street to start running the engine. When the engine is new just make sure you run the HSN rich for the first gallon.   

Lubricating the aluminum idler gear

When using the TLR Aluminum Idler Gear (TLR332009), we recommend using a small amount of grease to lubricate the gears. Doing so will decrease the wear on the mating layshaft and diff gear and this will give your transmission a longer life of smooth operation.

 

 

Make sure to clean the inside of the transmission and gears to remove any dirt and debris before installing the new idler gear.

 

 

 We recommend using TLR Hi-Pressure Black Grease (TLR77000). Spread a thin layer of grease completely around the idler gear as shown.

 

 

Install the idler gear into the transmission and rotate the diff gear a few times until the grease is evenly distributed onto all the gears. You should see just a small thin layer of grease covering the gears. Once you are satisfied, assemble the remainder of the transmission and install back into your vehicle. You're now ready to race!

Adam Drake's standard 8ight 3.0 set-up

Ronda Drake's standard 8ight 3.0 set-up

RC Buggy Ride Height with TLR's Adam Drake - VRC Magazine - Video

Do you think about your ride height?  I do!  In this video I offer tips on setting off-road ride height with my Team Losi Racing 8ight 3.0.  

http://youtu.be/Z_5bc7zye3A

Diff building.

I'm often asked questions about how I build my 1/8 diffs.  Is it important to grease the outdrive, O-rings, and ring gear?  How much grease should you use?  How much fluid should I put into the diff?  Hopefully this blog entry will help answer any questions you have about building diffs for your 8ight 3.0.  You can use the same method to build diffs on your SCTE 2.0, 8ight T 2.0 and 8ight E 2.0. 

It's always good to make sure all the parts are clean along with your work surface.  It's very important to grease the outdrive shaft, O-rings, ring gear, and the diff housing.  The grease will make the diffs operate smooth and be consistent on long runs.  If you don't grease these parts the silicone fluid can get between the outdrive and the ring gear and cause the two parts to seize or become notchy. 

You don't need too much grease, but it's better to have a little too much than not enough. 

Once you have the outdrive installed into the ring gear and diff housing you can install the gears.  I    like to tap on the cross pins to make sure they are pressed all the way into the diff housing. 

Next step is to fill the diff housing with silicone fluid.   

I fill the diff until the fluid completely covers the gears and cross pins. Then let the diff sit for a few minutes to let any air bubbles out of the oil. On the Team Losi Racing 8ight 3.0 I use 5,000 in the front, 7,000 in the center, and 3,000 in the rear. If the track is low grip, I switch to 5,000 in the center and 2,000 in the rear.

Next step is to drop the final gear into the diff housing

As you can see, there is too much fluid in the diff housing.  Make sure the gears are properly aligned. Then use your finger by pressing down firmly to wipe off the excess oil.

Here's how it should look after you wipe off the excess fluid.

Now you can attached the ring gear and install the diff.  I hope this helps!
Adam